Why I like Niacinamide in skin care?
Amongst the myriad of “active ingredients”, “new kids on the block”, “wonder additives”, there are 2 ingredients that are, for me, skincare heroes in formulation. Two ingredients that every anti-aging product should contain and hallmarks of the base of all really effective skincare…
Sodium Hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide).
Let’s look at the vitamin hero Niacinamide.
Often described as a “cell communicating ingredient” … Niacin, Nicotamide (nicotinic acid) and Niacinamide are all forms of the vitamin B3 offering multiple benefits for all skin.
B3 is used to combat and affect the appearance of wrinkles, lighten skin and even improve the appearance of acne. (www.naturaldatabase.com).
These derivatives of B3 work to improve the appearance of wrinkles and slow down the formation of new ones by providing anti-inflammatory and sub level hydration.
Niacinamide contributes to hydration by helping to maintain skin moisture and in conjunction with profound anti-inflammatory behaviour help mitigate the signs of sun damage.
By promoting moisture retention in skin, Vitamin B3 improves the skin barrier function – aiding in the balance between sebum and sweat (the skin’s surface protective acid mantle). Niacinamide has a profound effect on preventing and soothing dry skin and improve skin elasticity. The exact mechanism by where Niacinamide aids in moisture retention is by increasing ceramide and fatty acid levels in the skin which prevents moisture loss and stimulates microcirculation.
Anti-inflammatory action of Niacinamide also has an effect on pore reduction. By using the term “cell communication” Niacinamide is said to have an effect by “talking” to other cells to maintain a normal pore lining which can help you see a reduction on pore size although limited. We are talking minimization of appearance of pore size only! This anti-inflammatory action also has a positive effect on the appearance of acne (Journal of Cosmetic Laser Therapy, June 2006, P. 96-101)
Niacinamide, if the amount in the product is high enough and co formulated with antioxidants in meaningful amounts, has a profound effect as a co Anti pigmentation active by working as part of a process to limit the transfer of pigment into the skin cells. This is especially true of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
The only down side of Niacinamide and where I would hesitate encouraging use is for those with severe rosacea, where Nicotinic Acid has been seen to exacerbate facial flushing and capillary dilation.
Four products REMEDICA recommends with Vitamin B3:
– Day Hydration serum – sensitive.visage 50ml
– Night Nourishment and protection against dehydration serum – regenerate.visage 50ml
– Anti-aging cosmeceutical – Multi B Active Serum 30ml
– Any time day or night skin hydrator – Hydra.Mist 100ml
Further Sources: Experimental Dermatology, July 2005, P 498-500: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, April 2004, page 88